seldear: (Default)
[personal profile] seldear
Am making a Halloween costume for a party being thrown by an American friend in Sydney (married an Aussie).

Picked out a 'Victorian Steampunk' dress - Simplicity 2172.

I started with a 'calico' or a test attempt in plain calico - which was a good thing, since I picked the wrong sizing. Apparently US size 12 is not the same as AU size 12.

Got that fixed, and now I'm having a difference of opinion about the sleeves:

Simplicity 2172 - Calico

On the right, a plain sleeve without the sleeve flange over the top. On the left, the sleeve flange. I'm not sure I want the flange - it's not like my shoulders need any more width (or the appearance of it). On the other hand, the plain sleeve looks...plain.

There'll be lace at the cuffs and around the collar - I skipped the contrast ruffle for the calico, since all I had was the calico fabric. I'm wondering if I can get lace for the collar. I'd rather like to make the stand-up collar in this Pirate Bridesmaid Costume.

I've also decided to shorten the sleeves as this costumer has over at [livejournal.com profile] steamfashion. The long sleeves are too long on me, and the size of the sleeves needs to be made smaller anyway.

So: sleeve flange or plain sleeve? Any other suggestions, comments, etc?

And while we're at costumes, a very cool link to an Offbeat Bride Wedding!

Team Awesome Wedding: San Diego Superhero Wedding

I'm not married, nor likely to be, but this would be SO MUCH FUN. And anyone I invite would totes have to come in fancy dress. Or possibly wear a mask (for my more staid sections of family).

Date: 2011-10-20 03:24 am (UTC)
ext_36286: (Default)
From: [identity profile] allisnow.livejournal.com
Well, I think the left looks more steam-punky.

Date: 2011-10-20 03:47 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seldearslj.livejournal.com
That's what B1 said, too, and I'm starting to think that maybe it does.

Really not sure i like them, though!

Date: 2011-10-20 04:10 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wojelah.livejournal.com
Hm. I think I like the simpler line, without the flange - especially if you're adding other detail elsewhere.

Date: 2011-10-20 07:35 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seldearslj.livejournal.com
See, that's the tricky thing! I like the simpler line myself - it's more in my style.

But I'm not sure that the flange doesn't add something to the dress. *sighs*

Maybe a smaller flange - not quite so wide?

Date: 2011-10-20 07:37 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wojelah.livejournal.com
What I know about clothing construction fits in the palm of my hand but - could you construct it without the flange and see if you want it later? Otherwise, I agree - smaller might be enough "more" without being too much. Especially if you're shortening the sleeves.

Date: 2011-10-20 07:59 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seldearslj.livejournal.com
I could. But picking it apart to put it back together will be a bitch, and the finished material frays very easily, so putting it all together is going to be 'fun'...

Ah well, I didn't start this because I thought it would be easy. Me and my big ideas...

Date: 2011-10-20 08:04 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] wojelah.livejournal.com
Yeah, that sounds more trouble than it's worth. I am certain, regardless of the final decision, that it's going to look AMAZING, and I cannot wait to see pics. :D

Date: 2011-10-20 06:20 am (UTC)
ext_13221: (Get excited and make things!)
From: [identity profile] m-nivalis.livejournal.com
I'd suggest you either make the sleeve heads puffier (like the woman in the steamfashion post), or use the flange, but shorten it, like this Elizabethan jacket (http://www.extremecostuming.com/reproductions/themaidstonejacket.html). I'd also use some kind of closure for the sleeves, probably cuffs.
(deleted comment)

Date: 2011-10-20 07:38 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seldearslj.livejournal.com
Heh. I can sew, but I haven't had much practise at making my own patterns. There are certainly design alterations I'd love to make to the pattern, but I don't quite know how to do it as yet....

Shortening the flange and adding cuffs should be a relatively (relatively) easy business. Puffing the sleeves is beyond my dressmaking skills.

Date: 2011-10-20 07:36 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seldearslj.livejournal.com
I love your icon, btw!

I'm not sure how I'd go about making puffy sleeves - I know sleeves, but I haven't done that much costuming, so nothing on puffy sleeves.

Shortening the flange is definitely an option, though - and I was considering making cuffs.

Date: 2011-10-20 08:32 pm (UTC)
ext_13221: (Get excited and make things!)
From: [identity profile] m-nivalis.livejournal.com
I love your icon, btw!
Thank you!

If the top of your sleeve pattern is an upside-down U, it's fairly easy. If it's an S-shape curve, it's a bit more tricky for beginners. The puff is formed by making the sleeve part bigger than the armhole in the body fabric. Anyway, assuming an U, just expand the U in size towards the top and "upper sides". Make sure it forms a smooth curve all the way. Sew a quick "in and out" seam by hand, and let both ends of the thread hang loose (don't knot it or cut the thread off close to the end. Pull the two thread ends to gather the fabric. Pin to hell and back to the "body fabric". You can sew the seam straight on machine, but for safety's sake stitch it quickly by hand first and try it on. The puff may be too big, too small or start too soon, in which case you just have to re-do it until it fits. If you use a different colour thread, it's easier to unpick it after you've sewn the proper seam.

If this is unclear, I'll try to explain it better.

Date: 2011-10-20 08:45 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] b36.livejournal.com
Steampunk Sel looks very fetching :)

My vote is for plain sleeve, because along with your short sleeves it makes your white coat look both stylish yet practical at the same time - eg: you've just arrived at a social function straight from the wheel of your dirigible.

Further suggestions:
* A hat? Maybe a top-hat with goggles?
* A smart belt with a holstered pistol?

I'm not married, nor likely to be...
Aw...

Do you want to be married, though? And don't worry, I'm not volunteering to propose :)

Date: 2011-10-20 07:41 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seldearslj.livejournal.com
Adding accessories a little early - there's still a skirt to make.

I'm indifferent either way. Marriage or singlehood is a state of being, not a status to me.

Date: 2011-10-20 01:39 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cailetr.livejournal.com
I'd go with the flange. It adds something to it, and makes it different. It will look fine either way, but do it! lol
Also we're signing up for SS on SE. I don't think you've done it in awhile, but I thought I'd mention it just in case you were interested!

Date: 2011-10-20 07:54 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seldearslj.livejournal.com
Ooh! I don't know if I've been on SE in AGES. I'm not even sure my login works there anymore! (It's been years.)

Yes, I am interested! Any chance you could put my name in? I'll see if I can get in, but things are busy so it could get kinda whacky.

Date: 2011-10-20 08:27 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cailetr.livejournal.com
I'll add your name to the list! Just shoot me an email sometime soon so I can be sure I have your correct address. :)

Date: 2011-10-20 02:35 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sleekuk.livejournal.com
I'd say no flange but then again, it is a Halloween costume so if it's more steampunky then, go flange!

*snigger*

(Sorry but flange is a euphemism in the UK for lady's parts...!!!)

Date: 2011-10-20 07:56 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seldearslj.livejournal.com
LOL.

Never heard that slang before!

Yeah, I think people are saying that it looks better with the sleeve flange than without. But I think I might make it a little smaller - not quite so wings-ish.

The other thing is that I don't know if I'll get this done by Halloween! It'll be really really tight!

Date: 2011-11-07 10:17 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] missyvortexdv.livejournal.com
Probably rather late now bu I think the flange looks more steampunk. Very nice pattern choice btw, some nice lining at the back where it dips down and is visible through/past the legs could make it more luxurious feeling.

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